MongoliaX2014 // Mountain bike touring in the land of Nomads // Legends of Genghis Khaan // Microadventures by Brian Peric

I left this journal blank. It was a great summer in Mongolia and in South Korea. I worked out a plan to cycle to the eastern Gobi Desert (Sainshand) and visit Terejl National Park (photos below) in the same 7-day route nearing the Chinese border (Zamiin-Uud Замын-Үүд). I met new friends in Ulaanbaatar again this summer. Travelers arrived from Estonia (Lauri Mihkelson), Germany, United States, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Switzerland, Holland, Serbia, Korea, Japan and Mongolia (Mongolians are naturally the kindest hosts in the world) (: I stayed at Zaya's Hostel in central UB. There, I split the MongoliaX2014 into three (3) Microadventures: Terejl National Park (1), Gobi Desert-Sumber East (2), and visiting Khentii grasslands on a return trip through Avarga mineral lakes (3). 

First into the Terejl National Park (1) to see the running horses, bright green pasture Steppe hills and mountains, some herders and flocks, road workers from China, and wooden bridges towards the Turtle Rock. There, I camped there nearby a Shaman ground where pine trees were wrapped in colorful ribbons and cloth alongside the snaking hiking path towards Turtle Rock of Terejl Park. This location is just 60km (Park entrance, 3,000 Tugruts) 80km outside of Ulaanbaatar riding east on Peace Avenue directly from downtown (State Department Store - MAP of central Ulaanbaatar). The city of Ulaanbaatar is changing and developing - I noticed the paved roads of this capital city have improved since I started my trip in 2012 (massive holes filled in). The city was safer than two years before, as police or security officers would wait outside major shops or patrol through downtown on sidewalks. 

Second, riding southeast into the eastern Gobi Desert (2) along the TransMongolian railway route to China. Along this route, I met the most cycle travelers in all my travels. A family from Serbia with trailers on the road for 5+ months with their 3-year old son in tow; a Dutch couple on Recumbent bicycles having a blast riding to/from Ulaanbaatar to Sainshand in the Gobi all summer long. A Swiss couple (Jean-da and Leo) several years into their Round-The-World Tour, they are still traveling as I update this journal, bonnes voyages mes amis! I also picked up a ticket for the TransMongolian railway and bribed ($2.50) my way onto the train back to Ulaanbaatar to have lunch with a Japanese friend named Tomoko before leaving for Khentii grasslands, a Japanese cyclist/engineer who has ridden in Antarctica and designed a Fat Bike.

Third, riding east and west to and from the Khentii grasslands and offroad to the Avarga mineral lakes (3).  This section of the journey was different than the first two in several different ways.  I met a cool family outside of Baganuur, they resided along the highway and the grandmother had her year-round Ger tent setup with a large pasture of milking cows and horses from neighbors would often get mixed into her herds and shooed away by her grandchildren and their friends. From Baganuur, I continued east to Khentii leaving TOV central province into the greater grasslands which sprawl out for thousands of kilometers. I met 

An Ovoo - Shaman or Buddhist spiritual mound on mountain crossings (Davaa)

My first tour across Mongolia (2012)...

MongoliaX2012 - Solo independent crossing by Mountain bike (MTB). Mongolian tracks which can take you across the country, I tried and completed 2,500km or 1553 miles of them on the first trek I called the MongoliaX2012. Following my own route cooked up on Google maps and uploaded into a Garmin 705 cycling GPS. I completed that journey 53 miles further than the current record holder (Ash Dykes) for solo, unsupported crossing of Mongolia - but he pulled a cart, I cycled, trekked and pushed my bike to complete the shoulder-breaking journey two years before him with the aid/freshment/conversation and exchange of gifts with Mongolian Nomads from TOV province to Bulgan to Khovsgol Lake to Barunturuun to UVS province to the furthest point inside Altai Taven Bogd National Park in Kazakh Bayan-Olgii. I went the length of Mongolia from central to northern to far western solo/unsupported (for myself), but made the best of cultural connections to do it. I returned this summer to complete another 1200km to reach the Gobi Desert (Sumber - Eastern) and across Mongolia to the far east Khentii grasslands. 

My second tour across Mongolia (2014)...

The easier ride this year, 745 miles/1200km mostly on pavement, 200km out to Avarga mineral lakes). I traveled to see Mongolia, meet international travelers, relax in nature, and enjoy. (:This trek was more about feeling Mongolia - the clean air, finding and utilizing clean water sources either through filtering rivers (MSR microfilter) or carrying 10 liters of unfiltered well water (filling a few liters in villages, it's clean and delicious direct from a deep spring) or sometimes topping up on near-surface well water used by horses and humans (in which I always filter before drinking or use in cooking). I cooked this year in Mongolia, previously I carried no stove, pots, fuel or perishable food that required cooking for 45 days crossing the country. I enjoyed cooking meals this summer, and prepared them over LPG (Liquefied petroleum gas/natural gas) and a simple LPG burner head, on a stainless steel pot, and carrying a spoon and a small knife.  

BECAUSE IT WAS THERE...

I have completed through solo crossing thr 4-corners of Mongolia 3700km or 2299 miles (2300km offroad) unsupported in 65 days (7 rest days included).  Like many of the travelers I have met in Mongolia (including David Yu - Los Angeles Med Surgeon/friend/new sponsor), we always want to return to the magic of Mongolia. I did it because as George Herbert Leigh Mallory (18 June 1886 – 8 or 9 June 1924) said when he climbed Everest...Because it was there.

Terejl National Park on day 1 of my 20 day tour. 1200km was no problem given the surfaced roads going East/Southeast to the eastern Gobi Desert along the TransMongolian railway route.

I didn't carry rear/side panniers, I chose to use a 35L backpack and sleeping bag stuff sack contained all my clothing except the Goretex jacket. Upfront in the Ortlieb Frontroller Classic panniers I packed spare parts/tools/food/dead notebook computer/medicine/First Aid/and snacks.

The pavement, the landscape, the horses free to roam the park. Terejl was a good place to be.

Out of sight in lower right, a dead dog in this river. Very important to filter all water sources downstream!

I roll to ride Mongolia.

This is my dream, or one of them for bicycle touring in a foreign country in the summer. 

At night, I gathered twigs as kindling, and unfortunately there are Mongolians who picnic and throw trash in collective piles, I burned some plastic bottles as ignition and packed out a pile of other garbage left behind. Remember to always pack-out what you bring in on camping trips and microadventures. Leave the place cleaner than you found it, it helps the next person who wild camps in these beautiful locations. (:

Shamanism is alive in Mongolia

A lone calf walks by the Ger camps. These host international travelers taking Jeep-guided tours for the day or several days from Ulaanbaatar. You can actually do a lot in this area, Terejl also hosts a beautiful monastery - just a few kilometers beyond the Turtle Rock. Follow the gravel road Northeast and you will find it there. There are horseback tours arranged with you tour company in this area as well. Enjoy.

MongoliaX2012 - 1553 miles, 2500km, 40,000 meters, Offroad, 45 days. A first "solo crossing" for me. (:

Post by Brian Perić.

Post by Brian Perić.

Post by Brian Perić.

Traveling is about the friends you meet, the places you see, the experiences you keep, the dreams under your feet traveling for a few months at a time. This is traveling adventure that is familiar to me. Going some place far from home and familiarity is exotic and it can be life fulfilling as a journey. These journeys don't have to end, they are a step to a new beginning.

More adventure coming soon, thanks for visiting (:

Mongolia X Journal 5 // Desert Ride into the Empty Quarter // Northwest thoughts // Microadventure by Brian Peric // Lynskey Performance Titanium Mountain Bikes

MONGOLIA X 2012 STATS:

TOTAL DAYS: 45

TOTAL ALTITUDE: 40,000 meters / 130,234 feet of altitude change on course

TOTAL DISTANCE: 2500 kilometers / 1553 miles

DAYS ON: 38 days pedaling

DAYS OFF: 7 rest and injury days

FOOD CONSUMED: 2000 grams of powdered protein, 45 mega-packs of vitamins/minerals,

12 jars of pickles, 20 liters of grazing Goat, Yak or Horse milk, Wild onions, Fresh water fish, Mutton, Sheeps tongue, 6 bowls of noodles/meat/fat, 5 kilograms of yak/goat cheese, 12 fish.

BODY WEIGHT: Start 95 kilograms. 10 weeks cross-fit 85 kilograms. Completion 72 kilograms.

DAMAGE: cracked and repaired front rack plate, bent/cracked rear carrier rack, 1 replaced, 1 repaired. 

PHOTOS TAKEN: 1500

SONGS PLAYED: 0

"An Ovoo (Mongolian: овоо, heap) is a type of shamanistic cairn found in Mongolia, usually made from rocks or from wood. Ovoos are often found at the top of mountains and in high places, like mountain passes. They serve mainly as religious sites, used in worship of the mountains and the sky as well as in Buddhist ceremonies, but often are also landmarks."

"When travelling, it is custom to stop and circle an ovoo three times in clockwise direction, in order to have a safer journey. Usually, rocks are picked up from the ground and added to the pile. Also, one may leave offerings in the form of sweets, money, milk, or vodka. If one is in a hurry while travelling and does not have time to stop at an ovoo, honking of the horn while passing by the ovoo will suffice." [Reference: Wikipedia]"

No doubt this is going to be the toughest section of the journey. I have seen nothing but sand tracks corrugated with washboard surfaces from shaky suspensions of passing Mongolians and tourists in Russian UAZ Bukhanka 4X4 vans until the northwest Empty Quarter where the tourists vanished into the scrub steppe hillsides and rocky outcroppings taking over the edges of my periphery. There were still an occasional Mongolian driven motorcycle until clocking out 2000 kilometers from the capital Ulaanbaatar. Where have all the locals gone is a mystery right now, when the rivers dried into rocky escarpments tearing north-south through my path today, I cannot see where I will refill my reserves. 

Out here, the surroundings are vastly different, desolate, rocks overturned and corrugated sections take over every track, all running beside another, and sandy berms with thistles, painting the scenes green stretching out 40 kilometers around me on all cardinal directions. Mesmerizing sunshine and lack of any tree cover, no where to shade myself and the flies double, small ones in clusters always following me, with horse flies that sting with every tasty bite of flesh removed on my thighs, and calves, they are all relentless battling and debilitating with no breaks allowed today. I stop only to swat wildly, rhythmically, annihilating as many in this swarm as possible. Flies sucking perspiration from my back and neck, these wanderers of the Empty Quarter have no other hosts. 

Out here, I see no usual animals like sheep, goat, horses and yaks for the past 5 hours, except the lone camels in their herd of 4. The camels are wild, timid and scattered into the desert when I approach on the mountain bike. Another strange feature in this other worldly landscape burning in an orange sunset, lighting the scene on a mars rover landing, are the wheat fields and several abandoned farms I finally came across. 

I have been ticking off liters of water per hour today, about 1.5 liters per hour, 9 liter supply, I am usually good for 6 hours ride time, slowed by the sand traps as Schwalbe  trekking tires sink deep into the sand, an extra 500cc/hour of water is lost through my 5km/h trekking next to the survival machine. 5 hours in today and I realize a shocking situational disaster in wait, my last 700ml bottle is contaminated with bacteria and river water mixed with a remainder of powdered protein, I forgot to wash it out and didn't use it a few days ago, I had been carrying this supply just in case. With no rivers accessible, no vehicles stopping to meet me, riding through this high plateau desert only points me West to the Emptiness that is already enormous and all around me now. The lone SUVs pass defensive and never open up, instead throwing dust and rocks in their wake.  The most I can summon in response to my flailing arms pointing at my overturned and empty bottles is a wave from a closed tinted window as the vehicles blur past. It's still back breaking work to push, but I cannot stay where I am, if I don't move, I won't drink or find someone willing to help me. 

Hours earlier on this same day, Nomad Herders on Chinese motorcycles had stopped to chat with me, although I haven't seen them for hours, when I think about it now, I understand the consequences of water and what it means to me more than ever - right now. In Mongolian custom, I must offer water since they ask and have none themselve, this is an ordinary gesture. The Camelback podium bottle usually sends squirts of water up their noses, they grimace and thank me in Mongolian. On the whole, I don't mind helping others, as Nomad families have been helping me throughout this journey so far. But timing and consequences of the bad off roads snarling with sand and the desert that now envelopes the entire scenery, this isn't fun, it's become crucial to find water somewhere.

Across the steppe, earlier in the journey, I am salted and buttered with bread and chew Mongolian "arroz" cheese like bubblegum, the salt sustained me for days, and my bodybuilder powdered protein provides the "meat" I would otherwise not consume and waste my own muscles away."

I have kept a good pace with the mountain bike, but I have been for 50 kilometers forced to walk as the sand is now unrideable with 26x2.0 trekking Schwalbe tires. I am without water resupply now since there are no Gers and Nomads to share with.  I reduce my chances for a successful day surviving, with no available offerings from motorcycle Nomads as they carry so little and move too fast to keep up, they have no supplies to offer. And the Gers are all miles from here, those Nomads were smart and left this place a long time ago, the Empty Quarter. 

Only the abandoned and properly boarded-up, log-tindered cabin farm houses are the establishments I finally come across at hour 6, except they are dormant and wind swept, the grass and wheat growing in the twin jeep tracks. I step forward, thinking back that a vehicle just stopped moments ago and the driver wouldn't offer any water, or didn't understand me, it was confusing explaining how desperate I was, where I was, and why in the world I would be cycling through a desert region of northwestern Mongolia. 

The GPS was useless now as it wouldn't speak to me and I couldn't squeeze water from it's battery cells, and when the last driver passed, he looked in his rear mirror and drove off leaving a fishtail of dust swirling over the last mountain horizon where I could still see him as I walked and turned my head back in disbelief. I thought of some choice swear words, they all vaporized in the setting sun.

My chances for water before night (the most important time of all to be in good supply), as there would be nowhere which I could find it, and the roads impassible at night were slim to none, since Mongolians stop traveling overland after the setting sun, unless they are up to something involving vodka, only then will they carry on.  Up at the abandoned farm house, looking all around the property, there are empty stables for horses, all overgrown with wild grasses, there is no one and no animal here either. Along with the Russian cultivation practices that were introduced and later abandoned in this area at the end of era of Russian occupation of Mongolia, all had gone away and back to nature. Since "wheat" was still growing wildly from what I could see, it was uncultivated and mixed with desert sand and grass, the terrain was wicked tough, too dry and too soft to till. Everyone had now gone from this land. 

My chances now dwindling into a set of amber headlights ahead in the darkness while the orange glow if the sun still took control over the light switch to the sky. Lights and dust were now coming from the West, I could see them about 5 kilometers away, and this vehicle was crawling the rough rocky and sandy tracks where I had already pedaled and walked earlier, I doubled back when I found nothing and assumed the farms were manned. 

"This is my last chance, last shot for water for tonight, 12 hours till dawn, must get this car and find out if they have water, must...." 

I cycled down the weedy tracks northwest again, retracing my steps that were directionless without water in wait. Reversing myself and at that moment, getting in position, back to road to "stop" the vehicle, I couldn't let life pass me by this time. When the immaculately new, shiny black Hummer H3 pulled up, I explained,

"Bako Oos, Bako Oos...Gol oos bako bako!" (No water...No river water)

Between the drivers, on the center console was a 1.5 liter bottle of Minute Maid orange juice, I was shocked to see it sitting right there, I reached into my money belt and took out a $10 American dollar note and offered it to them for the orange juice. They said, "NO!" I couldn't believe it, I would pay almost anything for water, juice was unthinkable at that moment, and still they wouldn't respond, "I have no water, Bako Oos, look at my bottles" as I motioned and showed not a drop inside, but they refused and this was it, I knew it.

Just as they started to drive off, an arm of a young passenger whom I couldn't see beyond the tinted window, reached out with 700ml of fizzy soda drink. I reached and took the bottle and immediately tightened the top which was only sitting, as they really hadn't planned to give anything away, not even a drink, but this kind soul gave it directly to me, and the Hummer engine roared with air intakes, and away they swept through the desert night. I had been saved and redeemed by a single act of generosity, it really helped me.

"This is it, I'm settling right down here for the night."

About 40 meters away from the road, I eased the Lynskey mountain bike to the ground leaning on my packs, untied the bungee straps on the rear nylon bag holding my tent, Thermarest, sleeping bag, and clothing sack. The front panniers contained outer layers and my notebook computer, some electronics, repair tools and medical first aid. My backpack had protein, Gatorade powder, multivitamin packs, and "arroz" cheese and a half jar of Nutella. I used my remaining water and mixed with protein for the first shot, then with Gatorade for remainder of the fizzy pineapple soda, I had some hydration and protein now. To sooth myself now, I chewed and sucked salt from the "arroz" cheese I had in chunks in a plastic bag, which I may have carried for weeks, it didn't matter. I went down for the night knowing to a small degree, I had made it. 

The next day arrived, some 8 hours later, I heard an engine running, my bottles were all dry. Some Mongolians on summer tour were outside my tent perplexed to find an orange tent perched on the horizon so close to the dirt tracks. Their daughter a Nursing student in university in UB, were together with family in a black Nissan SUV truck. When my head popped out of the Tadpole tent, they took one look at me, this wild hair and swollen eyes and started jumping around joyous to discover something here. Apparently, they couldn't believe they found a cyclist, alone in the desert.  What in the world was I doing here with a bicycle (that question I had asked myself), for which there was only one answer - I came with a mountain bike to cross Mongolia, to see the country, meet the people and learn about their culture and practices of daily life that is as modern as it is ancient life of the Nomads. 

Their daughter listened and then translated for me, it definitely helped bridge some communication and I really appreciated meeting them. Without a word in a common language we celebrated, they gave me water, a piece of meat on a large bone and flies immediately swarmed when I opened and found it in a cardboard box. No problem, I protected my meat in a plastic bag I carried the goat "arroz" cheese, we laughed, we hugged, they even kissed me, it was unbelieable, quite an unreal moment of serendipity. 

Of course, I was beyond thankful, it's impossible to explain when you have gone to these scenes hour after hour, to reach the ends beyond your limits, beyond the aches and pains of my body, the true survival lie in drops of water, the open hands that shared with me, all the most precious gestures and substances on Earth, second to none, true life human connections. 

Thanks for reading the X journals from my adventures mountain biking in Mongolia. These are private memoirs from the overland journey by mountain bike. More adventures are coming soon!